Back from our trip and thankful to be back! The last 13 days were incredible! The people we met, old friends and new, were wonderful. Todd and I were very fortunate in our travels, even when the crazy traveling mishaps occurred.
Twice we were stranded in shuttle buses at the airport in Amsterdam, and once in Nice, with no explanation from anyone as to what was going on.
We found out that a 5 minute taxi ride in Nice cost more than a Nanno IPOD.
Todd was scolded for asking for ice in the Copenhagen airport for his coke.
Our cab ride in Stuttgart the morning we left for Nice was one for the ages. Siam picked us up and turned to me in the back seat and said.. “25 Arrows to the airport.” I knew he meant Euros and said, “that is fine.” He then turned to me again and said, “25 arrows to the airport!” I shook my head and said I understood.” He then took Todd and I on the most bizarre ride of the trip. Siam drove his Mercedes Taxi with the oddest of habits. In every single curve on the way to the airport, a road filled with curves, he broke into break neck speed and it was all you could do to hang on. Then, in the straight-aways, he would slow down to about 40 MPH. Literally crawling in the straights and flying in the curves. I do not get car sick, but came very close that morning.
Our plane ride from Atlanta to Copenhagen was on a plane the airline was retiring the next day.(Not sure about this one, but it seemed that old). Needless to say, we laughed a lot! It was the best way to deal with traveling woes.
We pipe smokers have a lot to be thankful for. There are many very good artist and craftsman out there making the pipes we love to smoke. They take great care in making the best. They take great pride in their work.
Peace,
Keith
A view from Mimmo's villa
The last day with Mimmo and Karin is a rainy one. The walk i took this morning was cold, wet, and windy…but also wonderful. I will miss this place. Taggia is a beautiful town with beautiful people. Karin made breakfast and we went down to the workshop where Mimmo polished the three pieces he will be sending me this week. He also put a slight bend in the Dublin piece. They are incredible pieces! Karin worked a bit on the two she will send later. I have never seen shapes like hers! They are something very special.
Todd and I leave today for Nice and fly out tomorrow for home sweet home.. it is time.
Ciao! Keith
Samples of Mimmo and Karin's eye for briar majesty
Journal Entry 10/30 Taggia, Italy:
Karin is Mimmo’s girlfriend. She is also an incredible pipe maker! She speaks four languages, is a fashion model, teacher, and a flight attendant. She is working on two pipes for me to bring back.. hopefully she will get them ready. We were talking yesterday about design, she brings a fresh perception to shape and lines. Todd loves her work. It is truly wonderful.
Yesterday afternoon Todd, Mimmo, and I went to the mountains to find some briar. I filmed the entire event, and let me tell you, it was an event! We climbed very high on very narrow trails, then we climbed through incredibly thick brush with sticker bushes on every side. Mimmo kept listening for something, he would stop and listen every few feet. We asked what he was hearing, he said he was listening for the White Boar!! They are very aggressive and will attack. This is how we have pipes my smoking friends. People climb into amazing dense forests and dig up these burls among briars and boars. The burl he and Todd cut and pulled from the earth is a promising one. Maybe. If a pipe comes from it, it will go to the land owner who allowed us to be there. Very cool.
Today we will be doing interviews for the documentary. Mimmo and Pippo, Mimmo and Todd, Mimmo and Karin..
CIAO!
Keith
The Heath Briar root, scenery of Taggia, and Karin
Let's not leave out Mimmo's dog-the best briar mascot around!
Journal Entry 10/29 Taggia, Italy:
I think Mimmo is one of the greatest treasures the pipe world has. His knowledge of briar is incredible. He works with a pride for what he does that seems from another era. I told him yesterday he thinks like a farmer. He is never in a hurry and he lets it come to him in time. You have to be like this with briar. You have to let it age after you prepare it. When Mimmo gets a truck load of burls, they are dropped into a dark, cold, damp basement where they wait their turn. The briar is cut, boiled, and aged. You have to wait for it. Mimmo is also a pipe maker. He has a large burl aging that he hopes to make a 7 day set from one day, he says 2 more years maybe. All 7 pipes from one huge burl!! That will be amazing. I asked him to make me a Mimmo shape. This is it. I call it the °Tea Cup;
It is the one on the right..
Ciao!
Keith
Samples of Mimmo's Pipe Genius
Journal Entry 10/28 Taggia, Italy:
I have spent the past 4 hours with Mimmo in his shop. I must confess, I have never considered the one who cuts and prepares the briar to be an artist. A craftsman yes, but never an artist. Mimmo has changed my view. He was taught by a legend, his father Pippo. Mimmo was a diligent follower of his father, and still is. Pippo retired 5 years ago at the age of 75. He now cares for his small garden and walks daily to Mass in this small village. Mimmo credits his father with all he knows, but Mimmo took knowing the briar a bit further. Mimmo can look at any burl of briar and with only a few quick calculations tell you what he will find inside when he cuts. I watched him do this for 2 hours and he was right every time.
The documentary I am filming is going to be fascinating not just for pipe smokers, pipe makers,etc.. I think it will be fascinating for anyone who loves a good story.
Being here with Todd and Mimmo is even better for me and the documentary- Todd and Mimmo are dear friends, and both see what they do as meaningful and important. They both take their work very serious and only want to be as good as they can be. I will never look at my pipe collection the same after seeing what I am seeing this week. The pipes we smoke are not just made by one man in a shop, they are made by nature, the briar cutter, and the carver. One does not exist without the other. It makes it even more wonderful to be a pipe smoker, to share in this ancient art form.
Ciao!
Keith
Here is Mimmo at work and samples of his Art
Another picture of Mimmo at work
Pipe Pictures from Stuttgart, Germany and Taggia, Italy!
Much ado about pipes in Germany and Italy!!!
Journal Entry 10/27 Taggia, Italy:
We spent the afternoon and evening yesterday with Oulie. He is without a doubt one of the greatest collectors in the world of pipes! From Bo Nordh to Memmo, from Chonowitsch to Former, Lars Ivarsson to Nanna, Cornelius Maenz to S. Bang, etc… I have never seen anything like it! His Sixten collection is without compare. It was a wonderful time with this very kind man and his wife. He also has the largest Vinyl Album collection of original releases I have ever seen. From Bach to Miles Davis, simply remarkable.Today we have made it to Taggia, Italy. It is simply remarkable. Memmo is one of the friendliest people you will ever meet. He is full of vigor for life and loves his work both as a harvester and cutter of briar, and as a pipe maker. We flew into Nice and Memmo picked us up. I look forward to filming his story over the next few days. He also has three pipe I will be bringing back!! I can hardly wait to see them!
Ciao!
Keith
Journal Entry 10/26 Stuttgart, Germany:
Cornelius Maenz is one of the nicest, most humble men I have ever met. He is also making pipes that can only be compared to the likes of Lars, Jess, Johnson, Davis, Linder, Bang, and Eltang. I did not know very much about Cornelius when I came back to the pipe world this past February. I first heard about him from Jody Davis. I was asking Jody one day who he thought was the next great name in Europe for pipe making. Jody did not hesitate, ‘Without a doubt, Cornelius Maenz!’ He is already one of the most copied by many American and European carvers. His shapes are unique, they come from deep within his creative mind. And remember, he is German, he is precise, driven by function, and dedicated to expression that works. But there is something else about Cornelius, he is funny, full of energy, and has a wonderful sense of humor.
I picked up a Bamboo piece from him yesterday, a beautiful, dark tanned blast Tomato, i smoked it last night. The first Cornelius for me, WOW! Such an elegant, cool, and comfortable smoke. His mouthpiece may be the most comfortable I have ever put in my mouth, very similar to how Jody makes the button. He has 7 or 8 pieces almost ready to ship to UPtown´s.. I wish there were more!!!
Peace,
Keith
Journal Entry 10/25 (en route to Stuttgart, Germany):
Todd Johnson enjoying the local cuisine
Pipes pipes pipes!! The more we are here in Denmark the more I understand why this is the pipe Mecca of the world! There is a deep love for beauty, precision, and creativity here. If you decide to become a carver in this country, you have to work very very hard to gain the respect of those before and around you.
I must stop writing for a moment…they are calling us to board the plane for Stuttgart..
I am back, Todd and I are having lunch at our hotel. We leave soon for Ruetleng to visit Cornelius Maenz. Todd has really been talking about how dedicated to beauty,precision, and detail Cornelius is with his pipes. I will let you know tomorrow how it went and what we saw. Plus I might give a preview of some of the Maenz pipes coming back with me.
Peace,
Keith
Journal Entry 10/24 in Copenhagen:
Front Row L-R: Per Hansen and Todd Johnson, Back Row L-R: Keith Moore and Ulf Noltensmeier
Yesterday we spent much of the day with Per and Ulf of S. Bang. They are incredible hosts! We laughed and talked a great deal about the world of pipes. The Chinese are truly affecting our world of collecting and smoking, but that conversation is for another time. Per and Ulf will not forget their American collectors, we don’t have to worry about that. After we had a wonderful simple meal of bread, fresh meats, and Tuborg, Per pulled three trays out of a gray metal cabinet. This is what he had in the trays. I will have these in the shop the week I return! Every single pipe is magnificant!
We left Per and Ulf and spent the afternoon with Tom Eltang. His shop is a museum! I have never seen a shop like it. It is literally a history in pipe smoking. I especially loved the picture hanging above the doorway into the main room. It is a blackand white photo of the former King of Denmark with a pipe in his mouth.. Tom was a gracious host. His passion for pipe making is incredible. I commisioned a rusticated poker for myself while we were there.
Left-to-Right: Todd Johnson, Tom Eltang, and Per Hansen
Journal Entry 10/23 in Copenhagen:
(L-R): Todd Johnson, Lars Ivarsson, and Keith Moore
The Danes know how to throw a birthday party!, incredble food, incredible beer, and more pipe carvers than you can imagine. A pipe carver’s birthday is a nice place to be. Peter Jeppusen turned 50 and he had much of the Danish pipe world there with him. Lars Ivarrson, Nanna Ivarrson, Tom Eltang, Ulf Noltensmier, Per Hansen, Peter, and many young carvers I do not know, yet.
Per drove us to the gathering. His Skoda speeding along the narrow roads among beautiful green fields, rich farm land, and long haired cows.( I had never seen a cow with bangs except in National Geographic.) Per drives very fast. So fast it seemed to have help Todd and I overcome the jet lag we were still feeling after being awake for 17 hours straight. The party was held at a Sailor’s clubhouse on a massive lake about 15 miles outside the city. When we finally parked after the “ride”, i was thankful. I opened the door and the wind almost removed the door from its hinges. To say it was cold would be less than, it was very cold.
Today we meet with Tom Eltang in his shop. I look forward to seeing where he creates. We will also be in the shop with Ulf and Per who have some pipes for me to bring back. I will get some pictures of the pieces and send them out tomorrow.
Peace!
Keith
Journal Entry 10/22 in Copenhagen:
Todd Johnson, Jess Chonowitsch, and Per Hansen
Jess Chonowitsch and Keith Moore (L-R)
We flew into Copenhagen this morning at 9:30.The wind was howling and the plane swayed back and forth as we touched down. Walking outside the airport was exhilarating! The 42 degree sunshine and the wind woke us up. It felt wonderful. After being in those very small seats for 9 hours, we were ready for fresh air!
If you have never been to Denmark, you should know it is incredibly beautiful. The city of Copenhagen is at once ancient and new. The people of this fine land are tall, thin, and they like to wear black. And they smoke pipes.
After we freshened up Per Hansen of S. Bang picked us up in his Skoda and we drove 1 hour outside of the city to Braby. This is where Jess Chonowitsch lives. It was a bittersweet time to be honest. Bitter because of what he and his family have been through over the past 3 years, but incredibly sweet to see and spend time with a good friend. Jess is one of the greatest pipe carvers to ever live, but even more, he is one of the nicest, kindest guys you will ever meet. He sliced up some homemade black bread, poured some Tuborg, and we talked about old times.
Many have asked me,almost daily, if Jess is going to make pipes again. He will, but when is not for us or even Jess to know right now. But I can say with all confidence, it is on his mind and heart.
Tonight we are attending a birthday party for Peter Jeppsen. Many carvers are going to be there. Tune in tomorrow to see who showed up.
Peace,
Keith
This Thursday, the 21st, Todd Johnson and I leave for 12 days in Europe! We will begin in Denmark for 4 days meeting with Jess, Ulf and Per, Lars, and a few other carvers. We will then head to Germany to see Cornelius Maenz. After some time with Mr. Maenz, we will head to Nice France where we will rent a car and drive to Taggia Italy to spend 5 days with Mimmo and his father. I will be shooting a documentary of Mimmo and his father’s history in briar harvesting. The documentary will have some surprises as well.
I will be keeping a diary here and on Facebook daily, as best I can. Please keep up and send your comments when you can.
Peace,
Keith
